
THIS 3D MODEL PACKAGE

Name:                   T1 Training Marcosticks - M22 PLA Chopsticks
Printing Instructions:  https://marcosticks.org/model-t-training/

Always go to the above web page for actual printing instructions for this particular model.
But here is a quick rule of thumb that in general works for most Marcosticks 3D models:

* The 3MF files are PrusaSlicer projects, with our own start-up GCode for MKS3.
* The STL files can be used direct in your own preferred slicer.
* Print in PLA - it's stiff enough for marcosticks.
* Marcosticks models require 100% infill, if you want sticks to be stiff enough for practice.
* Set layer height to 0.20mm. You can try finer layers if you really wish. But 0.20mm works.
* Enable "Detect bridging parameters" in PrusaSlicer, or the equivalent in your slicer.
* Use oval brims (see the 3MF file) to prevent ends of marcosticks from warping off the bed.

Process processing:

Trim oval brims off marcosticks using scissors, a flush cutter, or a deburring tool.

Training marcosticks contain articulate parts that are printed interlocked. They are the C-hook on the connecting rod, and the groove on the top marcostick. These two parts are printed with tight clearances. And they often come off the print bed "stuck" to each other. They are not really fused together during printing. You can snap them apart with a light push.

You will need to rub the two separated parts against each other, to smooth contact surfaces, in order to reduce friction. Note that the top marcostick have a rotational range of 90° around the longitudinal axis, and a 20° tilting range. As mentioned, the top marcostick follows the twirling path prescribed by the Standard Grip. You should move the top marcostick along this twirling path, to smooth contact surfaces.

Once you smooth the contact surfaces, apply tiny amounts of lubricant to these contact parts, with a micro screw driver, or a paper clip. When done properly, you should be able to hold the top marcostick, and freely dangle the bottom marcostick without resistance.

For additional information see:

    Training Marcosticks That Work
    https://marcosticks.org/training-marcosticks-that-work/

LICENSING

Utility patent applications for many training marcosticks have been filed.
A few specific models were also detailed in design patent applications.
But we are making all models FREE for everyone to print on their own,
as long as you follow the Mark-and-go license:

    https://marcosticks.org/license/

You may upload these models to online model repositories,
but only if you clearly label these as Marcosticks, as the license stipulates.
You may even make them in bulk, and sell them at profit,
without paying marcosticks.org any royalty fees.
Again, make sure you follow the Mark-and-go license, for commercial deployment.
See MAG FAQs:

    https://markandgo.org/faqs/

BEFORE YOU USE THESE 3D-PRINTED OBJECTS

You should not use 3D-printed objects in real eating situations,
without understanding food-grade filaments and food-safe coatings.
Make sure you read information about the topic on this page,
before you attempt to use 3D-printed marcosticks to eat anything.
We recommend that you only rehearse the Standard Grip with printed marcosticks,
if you do not know how to make them safe for actual eating.

These 3D-printed marcosticks are not meant to be used for eating, right off the print bed.
They are good for practicing the Standard Grip.
If you plan to eat with them, do so at your own risk, after consult these guides:

    What is food-safe epoxy and where to buy it?
    https://3dinsider.com/food-safe-epoxy/

    Food-safe coatings for 3D printed objects and what to avoid
    https://the3dprinterbee.com/food-safe-coatings-for-3d-printed-objects/

    3D prints enter the kitchen – a guide for food-safe 3D printing
    https://idzoneblog.wordpress.com/2019/02/17/food-safe-3d-printing/
